comme ci, comme ca

rei kawakubo, what would paris be without you? always a standout collection, a/w 09-10 was no different.

the collection seemed to veer between staid masculinity and soft femininity: asymmetrical greatcoats - complete with printed shirt fronts or tribal emblems - shared the runway with casual pieces covered with swathes of tulle in the lightest of pinks, and oversized a-line coats looked as if they were fashioned from a favourite grandmother's carpet.

Layering was, as it has been for many seasons now, key. Kawakubo bucked the usual trend by playing with structure, silhouette and volume: tight cropped double-breasted jackets reigned in drapes and folds of long lengths of large-scale flannel.

There were echoes of military here too, mostly in the palette, which also comprised of camel, beige, and the jettest of black - with jaunty magenta headpieces adding a touch of the eccentric.

I think what makes comme such an interesting label is that it always manages to translate itself to the commercial, regardless of how avant-garde it may appear on the runway. New York designers - you may like to take note.

loving lacroix -

and his understated yet kooky 80s chic in paris yesterday. also interesting that he seems to be taking some cues for silhouettes from nicholas ghesquiere at balenciaga.

putting on my cranky boots...

akris, you are not balenciaga. v v incredibly average and uninspiring a/w 09.

for anyone that cares: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2009RTW-AKRIS

next!

let's hear it for the boy

i don't really pay a great deal of attention to men's fashion. don't misunderstand me, guys are fabulous, and there's nothing better than a good-looking boy in a fantastic outfit (well, apart from a well-made campari and soda, but how often do you come across them, really?). it's undeniably true. but what i can't deny is that usually i just can't be bothered when it comes to keeping up with their runway stuff. even as it is i sometimes feel completely overwhelmed by style.com, i couldn't even begin to start delving into the men's wear.

HOWEVER this changes everything:

ann demeulemeester, i adore you: it's like you've taken mr darcy in some funeral garb, thrown on jack-on-crack pirate boots, dipped him in sex and made him join an indie band. electric feel, indeed.