runway review: af vandevorst s/s 09

There was a distinct lack of colour on the runway for af vandevorst's spring/summer 2009 show. This is not to say that it was overly missed, nor that the collection was bland, or relentlessly greyscale. It was just something that you noticed.

But what the collection lacked in bright hues, it made up for in simple, chic style. Crisp white shirts, tailored waistcoats, lingerie-inspired outerwear - An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx did not deviate from what they know they excel at.

Ladylike lace, prim collars and girlish white dresses were offset by tousled locks and red lips that would put Jessica Rabbit to shame. Other gorgeous details included an asymmetrical skirt that managed to be both tutu and tennis skirt, kimono sleeves that provided just the right amount of volume at the elbow, and a forest-green draped wrap top and skirt that provided the perfect foil for the red hues of lips and heels. Grey hoisery featured throughout, in various guises, and was the perfect antidote to the purely feminine styling.

There were a few questionable choices: deep orange looks seemed somewhat unanchored amidst the greys and greens, and the white leggings with floral cut-outs and over-use of floral-printed satin were a bit mid-90s - we all adore Clueless, but sartorially-speaking it is less than spectacular.

These things aside, however, it was another pleasing offering from the Belgian duo.