runway review: zac posen s/s 2009

“It’s about the new rock queen’s first journey to Mars, and the luxury outfits she’d wear”: Zac Posen summarises his spring/summer 2009 simply and economically, albeit cryptically. The intergalactic travels of a rock goddess have been translated into the flirtatious, whimsical dresses which are Posen’s forte, and which have garnered him adoration from young socialites everywhere.

Gone for the most part are the blacks and greys that featured strongly in Posen’s last spring/summer collection, replaced by colours that would not look out of place in the window of your favourite gelateria in Naples. Warm yellows, dusty pinks and ultra-pale greens dominated the runway, the perfect shades for sipping a cooling aperitif in the Mediterranean sun.

The focus often rests, once again, on the waist, with necklines frequently draped open to the waistline. Volume often settles at the hemline, silks and chiffons enhancing a gorgeous sense of movement. Ruffles, draping and tiers abound, pure Southern Belle, though sometimes somewhat unexpectedly, in a mini-bustle, or wrist-anchored train. All this lush femininity is broken up by draped 80s style tanks, mid-waisted minis, and biker-style jackets and waist coats – just so we don’t overdose on the saccharine sweetness – and Posen weaves in the tribal, and the gypsy, with oversized shoulder-grazing earrings, and Perspex and metal embellishments.

All in all, a successful astronomical adventure for Posen.